Before you pick the type of wood you want to use in your engineered floors, take into consideration the type of furniture that will eventually go in the room. While matching furniture to wood floors is easier than matching it to carpet, there are still some guidelines you can follow to make sure everything ties together well. As an example, here are a few popular sofa styles and the types of hardwood that look best with them.
Lawson sofas are probably the most common sofa in the country, and for good reason. They have a high back, low arms, and big, soft cushions. Great for families or individuals fond of napping, lawson sofas go with a more subtle wood type such as Brazilian Cherry, Maple, or Red Oak. Stay away from flashy colors or grain patterns as they will clash with the more traditional lawson style.
Very sleek and modern, slipper sofas generally have no arms and are rather small. Dark, exotic woods are a great compliment to the slipper’s no-frills look. Try Ipe, Acacia or Birch, and finish with a deep brown or burgundy stain. Ooh-la-la!
Settees go well with classic, sophisticated design schemes. Settees often feature carved wood frames and upholstered cushions and look great with rich, elegant wood types. Try wood without a lot of grain pattern, such as Maple, Birch or Amendoim, as the detail on the sofa shouldn’t have to compete for attention.
Known for their comfort and sheer laid-back-edness, bridgewater sofas are big, low to the ground, and great for entertainment rooms. Pair this sofa with a more rustic wood type, such as Hickory, Walnut, or White Oak for a rugged, family-friendly aesthetic.
You love exotic wood because it’s, well, exotic. It’s more colorful and vibrant than traditional domestic wood, and it’s fun to brag about when entertaining guests. But how much do you really know about the places from which your hardwood floors came? If you answered, “Not much”, don’t fear. Here are four of the top exotic woods on the market today and a little information about their areas of origin.
Cumaru, or Dipteryx odorata
Also known as Brazilian Teak, Cumaru wood has a beautiful reddish-brown color and an impressive 3540 Janka rating, making it one of the hardest, densest woods available.
Cumaru is actually a species of flowering tree native to the Orinoco region of northern South America. A member of the pea family, Cumaru produces Tonka Beans, seeds similar in smell and flavor to vanilla, almonds, cloves and cinnamon. These seeds have been used in cooking, perfumes, and tobacco, but are banned in the US and other countries because they contain the anticoagulant coumarin, which is lethal in large doses.
Amendoim, or Pterogyne nitens
Sometimes called Brazillian Oak, Amendoim is a lustrous, reddish- to yellow-brown wood that takes well to sanding. The wood undergoes a mild color change over time but usually keeps its original shine.
Amendoim is most often found in Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil and Paraguay and is a part of the Fabaceae family. Yes, it’s a legume. While the species is threatened with habitat loss and is listed as “Near Threatened”, sustainable harvesting practices allow for commercial use with little risk of increasing the species’ fragility.
Tigerwood, or Astronium fraxinifolium
In Brazilian Portuguese, Tigerwood is called gonçalo-alves. This distinctive looking wood has vibrant reddish-brown tones, black striping and a wavy, irregular grain pattern. Tigerwood has a 1850 Janka hardness rating, meaning it is both eye-catching and long-lasting.
Tigerwood is native to the Amazon Rainforest and is especially abundant in eastern Brazil. Sustainable Tigerwood harvesting is a big industry and a large factor in local economies.
Brazillian Cherry, or Hymenaea courbaril
Sometimes referred to as Jatoba, Brazillian Cherry is the 800 lb. gorilla of hardwood flooring. It weighs a whopping 56 lbs. per cubic foot and has a Janka hardness rating of 2350. Its color ranges from salmon to deep red to orange, and the wood features attractive black accent stripes and a natural luster.
Brazillian Cherry is not, in fact, a cherry tree at all. Common to the Caribbean and Central/South America, the tree is often called Stinktoe due to the unpleasant odor of the pulp inside its seed pods. Amber fossils from million-year-old Hymenaea trees have also helped scientists piece together an understanding of prehistoric Earth, its vegetation and its insects. (Think Jurassic Park)
Now that you know a bit more about your brand new exotic wood floors, invite over some friends, pour a few cocktails and wow everybody with your extensive knowledge. You might want to leave out the Stinktoe part, though.
You’ve researched hardwood flooring enough to know that the only way to get a perfectly flat, smooth floor surface is to install engineered unfinished flooring and sand and finish on site. As you know, engineered unfinished flooring is much more dimensionally stable than its 3/4″ solid unfinished counterpart. However, there are a few key points to consider before and after installing your new engineered unfinished floor. They are: Moisture and Humidity
Because of ground moisture, solid wood floors can’t be installed in below-grade areas, or, areas of floor in direct contact with the ground or with less than 18 inches of ventilated space. Engineered unfinished flooring, however, can be installed below-grade because of its cross-ply construction. Even so, the sub-floor moisture levels should be tested before your building materials arrive at the job site, either by a professional flooring installer or with a hand-held electrical moisture meter. Floor materials should be acclimated to the sub-floor moisture level for a minimum of 10 days, longer in areas of high or low humidity. Failing to acclimate the materials can lead to cupping, crowning or buckling, causing you to have to tear up your new floor and start over from scratch. Temperature
Fluctuating temperatures won’t affect the structural integrity of engineered unfinished flooring much, but they can cause the wood to crack and pop. To avoid these annoying little noises, install a fully functional HVAC system prior to installation in order to maintain a consistent temperature. A hard-working HVAC system can also help maintain humidity and speed the finishing process. Sanding and Finishing
Done correctly, on-site sanding and finishing will guarantee a perfectly flat and smooth floor surface. This should be the final step in the installation process. Heat will help the curing process, so be prepared to crank the heat to the high 80s for a few days after finishing.
Lastly, it is extremely important for new owners to take good care of their freshly finished floors during the weeks after installation. While the floors may look done, it takes some time for a new finish to cure and harden. Don’t move furniture or heavy fixtures for at least a month, and don’t walk on the floors in hard-soled shoes. The more careful you are in the first few weeks, the longer your new floors will keep their beautiful appearance.
I recently got a good question from a reader asking for advice regarding some replacement flooring. Here was their scenario: “We just bought a house where most of the rooms and halls have a beautiful floor. Some rooms had a bad stained carpet so we got rid of it. We searched on the internet and we bought what was the perfect match. Today they came, and OMG they are way too dark reddish looking compared to what we have. It’s supposed to be the same floor by the picture but they don’t have the same color and black ends as ours.”
Unfortunately, this is not an uncommon occurrence. Hardwood flooring, even of the same species and style, can vary dramatically from manufacturer to manufacturer.
A good metaphor for this phenomenon can be found in the printing world. Printers mix inks in order to achieve colors, much like painting. The industry standard is Pantone, using the Pantone color chart. This helps printers get as close to true color as possible. The Pantone system specifices exactly how much of each color ink should be mixed to achieve a certain color, which helps keep colors consistent from printer to printer.
So enough about printing, how does this apply to engineered hardwood flooring? Like so: Unfortunately, there is no Pantone-like system for staining or style in the hardwood flooring world.Each manufacturer will modify their wood flooring as per their specification. You may think you’re safe because your species is a natural, with no stain. Unfortunately, this is not so. Many manufacturers will stain photosensitive woods that change color due to sun exposure so that those woods’ color already looks like what they will darken to down the road.
So enough with the scares (it is almost Halloween after all, right?), what can you do to avoid this terrifying scenario?
Remember this: In the hardwood flooring world, color is king. Two engineered wood flooring products may be labeled the exact same thing, but until you have real live samples to compare to your existing flooring, you really have no idea. Also, please save yourself a lot of agony and do not base your color matching off of pictures on the Internet. (Sorry for all the bold passages, but this is important stuff, people!) This is in no way to disparage Internet hardwood retailers or to say that their photos are intentionally misrepresentative; the fact is that computer monitors are not all consistent in terms of color, so all web photos should be considered an approximation until you have a sample in hand.
In addition, if you are trying to match an existing floor, try as hard as you can to get the identical product from the same manufacturer. If this means contacting whoever built the house, or previous owners, whatever you can, because this is the only way to guarantee that you will get the most accurate match. If you can’t do this, then be sure to bring samples from the retail store or e-tailer shipped samples and compare them to your existing floor. (Also, make sure you specify to the retailer that you want samples that are representative of the color spectrum, so that you aren’t stuck with a patchwork of grain types and colors on one end and a mostly consistent grain type and color for the rest.)
It’s a lot to remember, fair homeowners, but your reward is a beautiful floor that’s consistent as well as the satisfaction of knowing you avoided the mortifying consequences of an unmatched floor. Now that’s scary.
So you’re ready to buy some engineered flooring, convinced that you’re cleverly avoiding the pitfalls of solid flooring’s dimensional instability. You get your engineered flooring. You install it yourself, and it looks great. You pat yourself on the back; you belong to an elite class of truly savvy home owners.
Then your floor explodes.
Ok, maybe it doesn’t explode, but it undergoes any number of mechanical failures, from veneers detaching due to inferior adhesives on to unlevel joints popping up due to bad milling, bowing, cupping, you name it. So why is this all happening, despite your super-savviness?
Because you bought your flooring from a twitchy looking guy standing out behind Lowe’s with a U-haul and claims of owning his “own mill” in China or Indonesia.
Ok, again this might be a slight exaggeration. But the point I’m trying to illustrate is this: Make sure the engineered flooring you’re buying comes from a reputable source. Check the brand, make sure it’s been around for a while. Make sure it’s got a good reputation, GOOGLE IT (or Bing it or Yahoo! it, just make sure you research it.) Hardwood flooring is a massive purchase, so a little research can go a long way in making sure that you don’t get skunked with some bum material. Look for customer testimonials. Bargain hunting can be nasty: Cruising Craigslist is probably not the way to find quality material. You might be able to find an independent broker or sourcer, but then you’re in the same position: Research the companies they’re recommending.
Here are a few reputable engineered flooring brands to take a look at:
Nail down flooring installation is a fairly common installation method for many flooring types. The only downside to a nail down installation is the super loud air compressor for your nail gun! But I guess if you’re installing your own floor, doing your own demo, you’re probably loaded for bear anyway, so a little noise pollution isn’t going to deter you. I was looking around at some videos that showed a good example of nail down installation for engineered flooring and I stumbled across this video by the DIY network on YouTube and thought I’d share it with you all. It goes through a full installation, including sub floor concerns. I hope it proves informative for you, let me know what you think!
So you’ve decided to install your new engineered floor yourself. You’ve got your kneepads, your saws, pencil, tape measure, a few other accessories and a whole lot of gusto. You’ve decided to go with a glue-down installation. Now the question is, what kind of glue do you use?
After making the complicated choices of choosing the right type of wood, both for looks and structural integrity, then choosing the appropriate installation method for your floor’s location, glue choice seems like a minor no-brainer. However, there are important things to consider when choosing glue.
First off, are you installing in a location where you have any worries about moisture content? If you have any concerns, it’s best to choose a glue that acts as a vapor barrier as well as an adhesive. It will take a slightly larger chunk out of the pocket book, but it beats having mechanical failures due to moisture down the road. (For those of you skipping over this section, stay tuned for the upcoming post “Board Replacements and You: Why oh Why Didn’t I Just Spring for the Vapor Barrier Glue?”)
Additionally, make sure the glue you’re buying has a guarantee in place. More than this, check to see if the manufacturer of the glue guarantees that their glue will work with the product you are installing. If you’re not installing your floor yourself, check with your installer as well about adhesives. Installers might be prone to stick with adhesives they’ve had luck with in the past, but this might be the time that things don’t jive, and you’ll be the one holding the ball after things go haywire. So be sure and check with the adhesive manufacturer and make sure your installer is on the same page with your findings.
Some other points: Make sure the glue stays on the bottom of the board. Don’t let it creep into the joints, as that will kill your tight fit. Also have solvents on hand for when you get that sticky stuff on yourself. We want you to become attached to your floor, but…
Finally, check your glue for which size/type of trowel it recommends, and also check its dry time, which should both be written on the container. You may have downed a quadruple hazelnut latte prior to getting rolling, but you’re probably not going to cover 3,000 sf in an hour. Although YouTube it if you do, because that would amazing.
Stopping short of diving into the full subject of installation, these are some of the important aspects to remember about glue for your engineered hardwood flooring project. Good luck on your journey into the magical world of adhesives!
Here are a few popular adhesive brands to check out:
Bostik Best (PDF! Not too hefty on the load time, but just FYI it’ll take a second to load.)
There is occasionally some confusion as to whether engineered flooring is real wood flooring or not. For the record, engineered flooring is real wood flooring, a composite of plywood and the veneer species. To recap, the plywood plies are stacked perpendicularly to one another and attached to the underside of the veneer species. This construction compensates for swelling and contraction of wood, and also allows engineered flooring to be installed more places and also so it can be installed utilizing the floating method.
So as we’ve established that it is indeed real wood, let’s talk about the differences between engineered hardwood flooring and laminate flooring. Laminate flooring was invented in 1977 by Pergo, a Swedish company. It can resemble a wide variety of materials, including hardwood and marble, to name a few. It is generally easier to maintain, less susceptible to moisture damage, more dent resistant than hardwood, and can also be floated.
For more information on Laminate flooring, you can check out the Wikipedia article, although, as the warning at the top of the page states, the article is fairly biased. It is obviously written by a laminate dealer or installer, particularly because while it touts all of laminates postive traits, it markedly neglects to mention that laminate is basically a photograph of wood or whatever the target material is (they refer to it as an “decorative applique”, which is oh-so-pretty and French) placed beneath an aluminum oxide finish. (To the article’s credit, there is mention of how the melamine resin that makes up the base material of the laminate can cause health problems as it is compound made with formaldahyde. Yikes.)
But the fact remains: Photoshop flooring, people. It is substantially cheaper, yes, but then, so is a print of the Mona Lisa versus the genuine article.
This is not to say laminate doesn’t make great flooring; it does, especially for those with young children and animals that put floors through quite a bit of abuse. Board replacements will be cheaper, and you will be getting a beautiful floor with many of the qualities of hardwood flooring; laminate will reflect light to create a more expansive feel for a room as well as giving it a cleaner appearance. It also has a leg up on carpet as it doesn’t retain pet dander, dust, and mold, making it a more hypoallergenic flooring option. (Providing the volatile organic compounds released from the formaldehyde binding process don’t compromise your indoor air quality. But I digress.)
So there you have it, a tidy comparison of laminate flooring and engineered flooring.
What are your thoughts about the two flooring formats?
There are plenty of times in the engineered flooring and solid wood flooring markets alike when you will come across what one might refer to as a “hardwood purist.” These folks do not believe in staining, particularly when it comes to exotic species or species more known for their distinctive colors/grains.
Well, as you may have guessed, I am not a hardwood purist. I think that any modifications made to a product give consumers a wider range of options to choose from is always welcome. This allows homeowners to more accurately express their own individual tastes and styles, rather than being boxed in by the color palette dictated by mother nature alone.
So let’s take a look at some stained exotics. (Stained just bears a negative connotation anyway, doesn’t it? Obviously wood experts weren’t thinking marketing, or we would definitely be talking about “color enhancement”.) Here are some stained versions of Brazilian Cherry:
So you can see how the stain affects the coloring of the wood. (Additionally, these swatches are “hand scraped,” meaning hand distressed and therefore have more of a “bumpy” texture for a slightly more rustic look.) As you can see, the stains often show the graining off in a different color palette, but nonetheless one can easily see that we are looking at Brazilian Cherry, just through a different color of lens. Obviously, this is what staining is all about, but I feel its important to stress that stains are not opaque (At least a good staining ought not to be.) A good stain should alter the appearance of the wood quite a bit, but not obscure the graining much. A bit of subtlety is involved, and this separates a good stain from a bad one.
What do you think of staining? Abomination or blessing of artistic license?
When it comes to the age old question of whether to use solid flooring or whether to use engineered flooring, there is the question of thin solid flooring. With solid hardwood flooring available in widths such as 3/8 of an inch, the question becomes more complicated. Solid 3/8″ flooring can be glued down, which is one benefit over usual 3/4″ solid flooring, which is pretty much nail down only. (Depending on who you talk to, naturally, but this is the safest bet.)
Additionally, these thin solids are handy when it comes to tight spaces that can come into play during a renovation. However, the solids will still undergo the same heightened expansions and contractions because it is a solid, natural product. (Expansion and contraction is usually measured by tangential shrinkage/expansion and radial shrinkage/expansion) Engineered flooring is not subject to as a result of its construction of perpendicular plies.
Despite the smaller width, the same balance of pros and cons still applies to these formats: With engineered flooring, you’re getting a wear layer that is probably thinner than the total width of the solid flooring, and therefore cannot be sanded and refinished as many times. However, the engineered flooring will be more dimensionally stable than its prefinished counterpart, and while the smaller width may lesson the effects a bit, the solid flooring will still move in service.